Monday, April 20, 2009

color forcast for the s/s09-10 rtw

color forcast for the s/s09-10 rtw








s/s 2006 RTW










S/S 2007 RTW












s/s 2008 RTW



















s/s 2009 RTW


















Analysis of the color used in the past collections:

- 2006:
the colors were shapered ,in higher intensity,and in higher chroma
eg. red ,yellow,green...



- 2007:
the colors were not shape as 2006's one ,were in constant chroma and they were softer
the warm and shape colors reduced
eg. only yellow and red still here



-2008:
the color's value was brightened again
eg. yellow, red, light green...



-2009:

the chroma of the colors was lowered than 2008's one, however,the red color was still here




- 2006-2009:

there are both warm colors and cool colors in one collection
black ,gray and white were in each collection
blue and purple were in each year's collection, but exist in different intensity,chroma and value








FORCAST


S/S 09-10 RTW








- black, gray, white still here



- colors will be in higher chroma because need to different with the last collection(which the color was not so shape)



-althoght most of the colors are in lower intensity and constant chroma, there is still a high chroma red color to balance the whole collection



-red color is needed because the collection need the feeling of passion which is the designer like to bring



- cool colors(eg. blue...) and warm colors(eg. yellow...) are in the same collection to make contrast











- scheme applyed:


1.Analogic Color Scheme
eg. green, yellow, orange



2.Complimentary Color Sheme
eg. violet, yellow

3.Split Complimentary Color Scheme
eg. yellow, blue, violet



4.Analogic and Complimentary Color Scheme
eg. green, yellow , orange, violet


5.Achromatic Color Scheme
eg. black, gray,white
















Saturday, April 18, 2009

color forcast for the f/w 09-10 rtw

color forcast for the f/w 09-10 rtw









f/w 2006 RTW
















f/w 2007 RTW









f/w 2008 RTW








f/w 2009 RTW







Analysis of the color used in the past collections:



- 2006:
the colors were shapered ,in higher intensity,and in higher chroma
eg. red ,yellow...



- 2007:
the colors were not shape as 2006's one ,were in constant chroma and they were softer
more blue and violet color which in different intensity






- 2008:
the colors were in highter chroma again
more red, orange colors



- 2009:
many gray tone colors
many brown,khaki liked color

not vivid







-2006-2009:
black ,gray and white were in each collection
there are both warm colors and cool colors together in most collection
blue and red were in each year's collection, but exist in different intensity,chroma and value







FORCAST



S/S 09-10 RTW









- black, gray, white still here
- colors will be in higher chroma because need to different with the last collection(which the color was not so shape)
- high chroma color balance with the constant chroma colors
eg. red and yellow balance with blue with lower chroma
-red color is needed because the collection need the feeling of passion which is the designer like to bring
- cool colors(eg. blue...) and warm colors(eg. yellow...) are in the same collection to make contrast





- scheme applyed:
1.Achromatic Color Scheme
eg. black, gray,white
1.Analogic Color Scheme
eg. red, yellow, orange
2.Complimentary Color Sheme
eg. violet, yellow
eg. orange and blue
4.Analogic and Complimentary Color Scheme
eg. green, yellow , orange, violet

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Paint on the face

Paint on the face






Color scheme applied: Double Complimentary Scheme
(RED and GREEN; BLUE and ORANGE)

- warm and cool together
- make the picture more contrast and more eye catching

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Christian Lacroix s/s2009 Haute Couture



巴黎直擊再一次傾瀉不盡的色彩、細節,Christian Lacroix 最新發表的春夏Haute Couture ,每件都是超級大龍鳳,colour couturier Christian Lacroix 獨門熟練的澎湃激情,刺激了看官的眼睛,也熊熊燒旺Haute Couture 的生命力。採訪:Leung Kam Ching  攝影:Wong Wai Hung日期:2009年1月27日3:30pm (巴黎時間)地點:Centre Pompidou,75004Paris反正追trend 不是Haute Couture 的首要意旨,那怕當是懷舊戲服看。每次時裝周,看見Christian Lacroix 推陳出新、吃老本的嘩嘩嘩大龍鳳,眼睛官能刺激還是超標的,還有誰比他更鍾情或擅長、可以義無反顧地more 色彩下去?









Finale 的新娘子,裙上藏了幾封信箋,活脫脫是來自中世紀的俄國皇后。





金色玫瑰裝飾的軍裝禮服,來自俄羅斯的美美英氣







Lacroix 的Haute Couture ,作品敢情是時裝大盆菜,用色多、細節繁、剪裁複雜又見細膩章法功力,剛發表的09春夏Haute Couture 再度如是,宮廷風範由五十年代跨到八十年代,有人會確定為老餅風格,但實情件件都是時裝寶鑑的華衣。新裝用料是taffeta 、satin 和tulle ……堆砌出來的是bustier full dress 、斗篷或cardigan 配box 、balloon 或umbrella 狀短裙,也有印了古董花圖案的quilted skirt 、「畫裙」固然走不了,大蝴蝶結也必然on list 。配件如jumbo size 的耳環及手鐲都是誇張的八十年代,布偶娃娃頸飾則煥發歐洲童話味。








今季靈感來自Russian Czars 展覽,少不了冰雪美人與皇室華麗釘珠。












Christian Lacroix 是這樣擁有強烈且濃艷色彩的時裝設計師,法國南部、西班牙等火熱passion 之地,經常是他借題發揮的勝地。最新這個Haute Couture 系列,火熱濃情依舊,靈感泉源來自剛於倫敦Victoria &Albert Museum 舉行的Russian Czars 展覽。俄羅斯的莊嚴與Lacroix 揮灑的個人化色彩,配合得是否天衣無縫見仁見智,但如果Haute Couture 需具備的是一定的陣勢氣量,Lacroix 這個舊格式來算,照常滿分。





source-http://www.getjetso.com/forum/thread-299919-1-1.html

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Exhibition of Christian Lacroix 's work in Taiwan

非常難得,台北當代藝術館正在進行一場法國高級訂製服大師Christian Lacroix(拉克華)的服裝展。 這「如雷貫耳」的名號啊!任何一位時尚愛好者,都應該要抱著「朝聖」的心情,去好好欣賞這個展覽的。 不過,請容我提醒您,這不是一場「好看」的展。但是在這個展的背後,卻有著這位大師的故事。 Christian Lacroix的高級訂製服,是許多好萊塢明星赴宴的選擇。圖為女星茱莉安摩兒上周參加坎城影展電影《盲目》的首映,穿著Christian Lacroix的高級訂製服出席。
去香港看過香奈兒(CHANEL)的「MOBILE ART」藝術展之後,然後再到台北「當代藝術館」看Christian Lacroix的這場「反常」服裝展,我感覺到彷彿被打落深淵般極大的落差。不不!我知道錢絕對是最大因素。香奈兒的展覽,請到超級建築師Zaha Hadid憑空打造一座有機體展覽館,那絕對是重金堆出來的。但我認為,就連辦這場展的背後「動機」都有極大的差異。反時尚 概念衝擊 差別在於,香奈兒的藝術展其終極目標是為了要「推銷」香奈兒的。儘管聚集了世界頂尖的前衛藝術家的概念作品,但在那麼完美精緻的包裝下,不免處處聞到濃厚的商業行銷的意味。但Christian Lacroix這個展,非旦行銷不成,如果讓那些貴婦們來看這個展,搞不好還會產生反感啊!那些Christian Lacroix的華美衣裳,穿在狗臉模特兒,或垂著一頭黑髮、像「貞子」般爬行的模特兒身上,伴隨著尖銳詭異的電子音樂。這裡的氣氛與時尚一點關係也沒有,某些部分,反而還比較像「恐怖蠟像館」呢!

台灣很難得看得到跟時尚有關的藝術展,結果一來就來了個這麼「重口味」的,也可以說是我們的福氣。事實上,在藝術與商業之間這般拉扯,幾乎就是Christian Lacroix,這位聞名於世的法國高級訂製服設計大師一生的寫照。他原本攻讀文學與藝術,擁有博物館策展人的身分,後來投身服裝設計界,在九○年代紅極一時;然後他又從雲端跌落,品牌被集團賣掉;如今藉由創業二十周年的機會,以這樣的一個純藝術性的展覽,重新省視自己。Lacroix其實也提供同樣的機會,給愛好時尚的人們去進行更多深層思考。 厚底子 藝術聞名 熟悉時尚工業的人,都還記得三年多前,Lacroix因為每年約五百萬歐元的嚴重虧損,而被LVMH賣給美國經營免稅品銷售的Falic集團。當時這對Lacroix與法國人來說,都是一椿非常嚴厲的折磨。因為Lacroix代表法國高級訂製服的另一支純正血統,他曾分別在愛馬仕(HERMES)與尚巴度(JEAN PATOU)旗下工作,一九八八年首度推出高級訂製服秀的邀請函,曾經是當時最搶手的門票。他師出名門,又擁有厚實的文化藝術底子,在他最走紅的那幾年間,他可以說是法國文化重要的一環。 如今這個牌子被賣給「沒文化」的美國人經營,結果如何了呢?由他所設計的旅館「Le Belle Chasse」去年底才開幕不久,目前是巴黎最紅的設計旅館。他設計的法國高鐵TGV的車廂,也上路了。他幫evian設計新的礦泉水瓶身,也開始設計家具。當然他也不忘情於他最愛的藝術策展工作。目前Christian Lacroix的確還是非常活躍,但他是活躍在別的領域裡。 趕潮流 迷失方向 不過,這樣子說其實對Falic集團也並不公平。至少目前Lacroix有很多精神與餘力可以去發揮他的創意。比起在LVMH那一段,每天得面對一片赤字的財務報表的日子,這已經是天堂。Lacroix曾回憶說:「我每天早上醒來就戴上日本武士的面具,隨時準備好要打包離開。當時我完全陷入偏執的情緒中,以負面態度看待一切。」 Lacroix大約從九○年代中期開始面臨虧損,除了當時吹起「極簡風潮」,也因為Lacroix面臨商業競爭之下,掌握不住品牌的方向。當年為了趕上極流行的「副牌市場」,而開始推出年輕的牛仔系列,但那樣的衣服根本不是Lacroix應該要設計的。連他自己都形容自己的設計「充滿著虛假的噱頭。」他說:「那段時間,每當我看到路上有女性穿著我的設計,便感到很尷尬。因為那活脫就是成衣目錄裡的衣服。」 如今他的品牌大幅瘦身,並且積極攻進美國市場。上個月,全美國第一家旗艦店在紐約開幕了,全新香水與配件產品也同時上市。同時,好萊塢女星也紛紛穿上他的高級訂製服,走上星光大道。 所以,最後又回到大家很愛反覆辯證的這個老話題:「藝術的背後,就是需要商業支撐著呢?」我認為,大家應該要先把握機會,去台北「當代藝術館」看看這個「反常」的秀。














Sunday, March 22, 2009

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Perfume of Christian Lacroix

Perfume of Christian Lacroix




1987年,Christian Lacroix 發表了品牌中第一款女性香水。浪漫的法國人命了一個悅人閃亮的名字:C’est la vie!(這就是生活!) 從此,法國人再也忘不了這款香水,動人的瓶身與香氣,成為時尚女裝品中最佳的代表香水之作。最初的C’est la vie!(這就是生活!)以心形為瓶身設計的原創,用酒紅般火的珊瑚玻璃為瓶蓋,充分展現 Christian Lacroix 溫暖的生命力與法式巴洛克的華豔與熱情!歡樂精靈這款新香水,以最初設計的概念為原型,同樣的大小,同樣的瓶形,珊瑚般心形的瓶口設計,讓人在新香水上,見到了原創香水,令人眷戀的身影。黃與藍相間,晶瑩剔透,新香水顯得更為輕盈,更與 Christian Lacroix 親近;抓住了 Christian Lacroix 品牌所有的特點——豐富的設計師亞爾勒風格:原色與顏色對比鮮明令人雀躍與歡樂,在花香與繽紛色彩中,涵蓋所有Christian Lacroix品牌的價值。歡樂精靈牽動著嗅覺敏感的神經融合了水果淡淡的甜美香氣,與白玫瑰、茉莉與蘭花的優雅,猶如走近繁花叢聚、通透明亮的花園世界,延伸無限想像。

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Christian Lacroix 緞帶世界 (Fall 2005 RTW)

Christian Lacroix 緞帶世界(Fall 2005 RTW)












Christian Lacroix 秋冬系列毫無疑問比過往的風格來得保守,而 Haute Couture (高級訂製服)與 Pret-a-Porter (現成服裝)的區別,在於後者的商業味更濃。 為了開拓更大的市場, Lacroix 的現成服裝主張時尚素淨的風格,而 ribbon 則成了當中的標誌,不論是黑色套裝或晚裝裙都喜以 ribbon 作點綴,為平凡的設計生色不少。此外, Lacroix 亦有將 ribbon 設計成 brooch 。

不過,系列中有些出色的設計其實不需要額外的裝飾,如一件金色的上衣及中袖的白花黑裙,其波波袖本身已予人 sophisticated 的感覺。而最較人印象深刻的,便是一件低胸長裙,叉位開至臀部位置,猶如美人魚般,這才貫徹 Lacroix 的本色。


Thursday, March 5, 2009

Class Exercise: applying color theories and priciples on a fashion boutique

Class Exercise: applying color theories and priciples on a fashion boutique





color theories and priciples applied:
-Double Complimentary Color Scheme

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Class Exercise: applying color theories and priciples on a fashion collection


Class Exercise: applying color theories and priciples on a fashion collection

color theories and priciples applied:
-Analogic Color Scheme













Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Limited Edition Christian Lacroix Evian Water

Limited Edition Christian Lacroix Evian Water
Evian 在各地與不同時裝品牌大玩 cross over,除了在英國推出Jean Paul Gaultier限量版水晶瓶外,在台灣,與時裝品牌Christian Lacroix 亦合作推出evian 2008 Christian Lacroix 水晶花冠紀念瓶,瓶身充滿高貴典雅的通花,令礦泉水即時升格10倍!

Monday, February 16, 2009

colors in same hue

colors in same hue

















In the above pictures, the main color are in one hue , but in different intensity,and value.





Color scheme applied: Monochromatic color scheme
-use same hue but changes the brightness and saturation to achieve different shades and tints.


Sunday, February 15, 2009

Colors used in Chriatian Lacriox's Collection- Spring 2005 RTW

Colors used in Chriatian Lacriox's Collection- Spring 2005 RTW







↑ please click the picture for a larger one^^

Colors used in Chriatian Lacriox's Collection- Fall 2005 RTW

Colors used in Chriatian Lacriox's Collection- Fall 2005 RTW







↑ please click the picture for a larger one^^

Friday, February 13, 2009

Colors used in Chriatian Lacriox's Collection- Spring 2006 RTW

Colors used in Chriatian Lacriox's Collection- Spring 2006 RTW


↑ please click the picture for a larger one^^





Colors used in the collection:








Primary color was used:- red, yellow, blue, to make the design more colorful and eye catching











Analogous Color Scheme & Complimetary Color Scheme are used:
-Analogous Color Scheme, eg. red and orange
- Complimetary Color Scheme, eg. red and green
~> make the colthing more colorful and have contrast




In a season of print and femininity, Lacroix put together one of the most ravishingly individual looks to be found anywhere. Hair tied up in printed headscarves, his girls wore flowered dresses with contrasting slubby coats or jackets slung on top. They walked lightly, in Hessian ballet shoes, swinging straw bags, each decorated with a big satin bow with a chunk of diamanté in the center.










Monochromatic Color Scheme: - same hue ( green) but in different brightness, intensity and saturation








Monochromatic Color Scheme: - same hue (Sandy Brown) but in different brightness, intensity and saturation .








































He found ways to play out all the experience of his nearly 20 years as a couturier: his taste for Spanish boleros, corseted bustiers, eighteenth-century brocades, bold African prints, flowing painterly chiffons.